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DIY NOx Sensor Replacement - AdBlue Warning!

Mat-One-T

Member
Hi Everyone,

I recently had an intermittent engine warning light on the dash (2017 V250 AMG), and took it to my local garage to read the fault code. The code came back as a NOx sensor fault (there are two sensors on the exhaust, but they couldn't tell me which one it was as they're not a MB dealer and don't have the full MB diagnostic system), and after reading up on the issue I decided that I would replace the sensors as the van has done ~50k miles.

I asked my local MB dealership to quote me for the sensors, and they're around £400 each at the time of writing. Generic sensors are available for around £115 each on ebay, so I took a chance and bought two. There are mixed reports about whether generics are worth the saving, as they potentially won't work, or will have a shorter life than genuine parts. I based my purchase on the reviews, link to the sensor below (might be specific to year/engine, so speak to MB dealership to get part number specific to your vehicle):

NOx sensor for Mercedes-Benz # A0009058411 A 000 905 84 11 | eBay

In the time it took me to get organised and buy the sensors my AdBlue system became unhappy as it couldn't get NOx values from the sensors, so didn't know how much AdBlue to inject into the exhaust, and threw out a code resulting in in an 'AdBlue System Malfunction' on the dash whenever the vehicle was unlocked/started. After a little more procrastination time the AdBlue warning progressed to a milage countdown (500 miles) before it would go into 'Emergency Mode'.

On my van the NOx sensors can be easily accessed from the drivers' side, I drove onto levelling chocks to raise it a bit and chocked the opposite side wheels to prevent any roll-back.

20240216_101419.jpg
Front sensor threaded into the exhaust just behind the small bore pipe on the left.

20240216_101428.jpg
Rear sensor, bottom middle.

20240216_101448.jpg
New sensor before fitting.

Disconnect the cable from the electronics module (there's a small grey sliding clip you need to lever up with a screwdriver), and unbolt the electronics module by removing the two nuts (10mm socket).

The front sensor was very hard to remove and I had to heat up the threaded plug with a blow lamp in order to remove it. The threads on the old sensor looked pretty damaged, so I bought a thread chasing tool from Amazon (there might be better ones than the one I bought, but it was on next-day delivery, so I went for it). I also purchased a NOx sensor removal tool (basically a 22mm socket with a cut-out so you can fit it over the sensor wire). Links below:

GEARZAAR Oxygen sensor socket NOX Sensor lambda Socket Removal Tool 22mm 3/8-Inch with Wide Side Cutout Fit for Most Vehicles and Trucks : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Sealey Fuel Vaporiser Port Thread Chaser Ford M20 x 1.5mm - VS537 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

The rear sensor was much easier to remove, possibly due to less heat from the exhaust. I've since read that the ports in the sensors can become blocked and can be cleaned using brake cleaner, but I re-checked mine and they looked OK, so assuming there was actually something else wrong with them.

I also removed the AdBlue injector (near to the front NOx sensor) as I'd seen content on YouTube suggesting that the injector can become encrusted with urea crystals, and even the injection port blocked. There are a lot of scare stories online about needing to replace the AdBlue tank as it has pumps and heaters internally that can't be swapped out, and can run to £2-3k in parts/labour from a main dealer. I was hoping that this was not the case!

The injector is held in place by a clamp which has a star-shaped nut (like Torx) on it that none of my sockets would fit onto (and it was fairly inaccessible), so I ended up grinding through the clamp ring using a power file (the clamp is stainless, so couldn't cut through it with snips). New clamp from ebay (again, might be engine/year specific):

Adblue injector Clamp for Mercedes replaces A0009951133 | eBay

Thankfully the new clamp has an socket head allen key bolt, so is much easier to re-fit.

20240218_094236.jpg

Ad-Blue injector, cable removed.


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Ad-Blue injection port, no crystals/blockage.

20240226_174442.jpg
AdBlue injector underside (three small holes, which looked to be clear)

I re-fitted the AdBlue injector and eagerly jumped into the van to start it up and enjoy the extinguishing of dash warning lights and a happy AdBlue system. I was disappointed!

After a little more research I discovered that the codes need to be cleared using a diagnostic tool, so I ordered a Carly tool (Diagnose and code your car | Carly OBD (mycarly.com)). I went for the Carly as I'd heard good things, and there's a lot of support available (plus online guides for some repairs). It should be noted that Mercedes are not as accommodating as other car brands with respect to allowing third-party OBDII scanners to interrogate their systems. Some of the live data from my Carly scanner does not seem correct, or even populated, so I am not recommending this particular scanner. I'm going to speak to them and see why I don't get all the values they claim, and will update if anything comes back on the subject.

I installed the Carly app on my phone, connected the code scanner (dongle) to the OBDII port (which is tucked up under the dash to the right of the accelerator pedal (RHD model), will need a torch to find the cover and unclip it.

I ran a diagnostic (took around 5 minutes, engine running) and a reasonable number of codes were returned (bulb errors, rear window error etc), but the codes I needed were listed, which were for NOx sensor faults and AdBlue system malfunction and milage restriction.

I cleared the faults, turned off the van, locked it, unlocked it and the AdBlue milage limit was still showing on the dash, but the engine warning light had extinguished..!

I re-scanned the vehicle with the Carly app, and the AdBlue milage limit fault had re-appeared, so I cleared it again. And again. And again. The warning wouldn't stay cleared, so I contacted my local non-MB garage and asked them if they had a more advanced (expensive) diagnostic tool. They said that they'd had trouble with MB AdBlue systems before, and that they can be pretty hard to clear off, but would have a go.

I let the van sit for 4 days as I didn't want to use up my mile limit, and started it up to drive to the garage; no AdBlue warning. No idea why, but the AdBlue warning has cleared itself. The day after I cleared the codes I did a 30 mile trip, so it's possible that the system reset during the drive, but I'm none the wiser. Cancelled garage appointment, made a cup of coffee .. :)

Hopefully all will be good for the foreseeable future, but will update if anything changes.
 

Darren Squire

New Member
I have just the nox sensor changed once at a local garage which worked for a short while before the warnings came back so decided to bite the bullet and take it to merc who said the sensors were not communicating correctly. And that the older style sensors (our van v250 2017 ) have been changed and the ecu needs updating (4 hours) so it can read the new ones as there is an issue with older ones so fingers crossed it sorts this out. not cheap over £1k
 

Mat-One-T

Member
## Update ##

My celebrations were short-lived, and the engine light came back on again with Nox sensor 2 malfunction. When I unplugged the sensor and ran a diagnostic with my Carly dongle it registered that the Nox sensor was not connected, rather than malfunctioning. I checked cables, voltages, CAN bus termination resistance, reconnected one of the old sensors, and nothing worked to clear the sensor malfunction.

I spoke to my local MB dealership and they could look at the van in 6 weeks, and it would be a £180 charge just to plug in and run a diagnostic, plus extra for any programming that might be required.

I then spoke to a local MB specialist that have the official MB diagnostic equipment, and they could fit me in within a week.

Essentially the new sensor needed to be coded in to work, and it has been working ever since (1 week now). They charged be £140 for the diagnostic and programming, which was much more agreeable! So two knock-off sensors and coding came to around £400.

I have no clue why sensor 1 works fine, but sensor 2 needed to be coded (both the same compatible sensor from ebay), will see how long they last. Irks me somewhat as I'm forced to use an MB dealership or specialist to mend my car, maybe the third-party code readers will evolve in time...

In case anyone is interested, this is what the genuine MB sensors look like inside (covered by a gel inside aluminium housing):

20240329_105456.jpg

Doesn't look super complicated, the main microcontroller can be bought for around £6 from mouser (for a single unit), so I find it hard to comprehend how it can cost £400..!!
 

Mat-One-T

Member
## Update 2 ##

Well this is starting to sound like a diary of my failure .. :( .. Engine light came back on, and again it was Nox sensor 2 that was causing a malfunction. At this point I had the bright idea to swap the two sensors around to see if it made any difference.

The thread on the front sensor (in the DPF) was slightly stripped when I first replaced the original Nox sensor, so I thought I would run the thread cleaning tool into the port when I swapped the two new sensors around. I needed to use a fair amount of force to wind the thread cleaning tool in (even with some cutting oil), but managed to get a decent number of threads cleaned out.

When I tried to re-fit the Nox sensor back into the DPF it would not seat even with the nut fully tightened. It was at this point I realised that I had destroyed the seat in the port with my thread cleaning tool, and the sensor could no longer butt up against the internal shoulder in the port. Temporary fix was exhaust paste around the sensor where it emerges from the nut, but longer term I'm either going to get a new sensor port welded onto the DPF, or will need a new DPF (not ideal!).

Having swapped the two sensors around I cleared the codes and waited for the light to come back on, which it duly did after about a week and still reported that Nox sensor 2 had a malfunction. I guess it's not that surprising as the sensors communicate over CANBUS and must have individual addresses, but how can you tell which sensor is actually causing the problem? I guess by unplugging one, running a diagnostic and seeing if it is now 'not connected' rather than malfunctioning..(?)

Anyway, I'm going to speak to my MB specialist to see what they recommend (I suspect it will be to get genuine MB parts fitted), but I'll try and find out why swapping the sensors didn't change anything...
 
J

j200george

Active Member
VIP Member
I just had my nox sensor replaced by a MB specialist. Was about £380 all in.
 

Epigram

Active Member
## Update ##

My celebrations were short-lived, and the engine light came back on again with Nox sensor 2 malfunction. When I unplugged the sensor and ran a diagnostic with my Carly dongle it registered that the Nox sensor was not connected, rather than malfunctioning. I checked cables, voltages, CAN bus termination resistance, reconnected one of the old sensors, and nothing worked to clear the sensor malfunction.

I spoke to my local MB dealership and they could look at the van in 6 weeks, and it would be a £180 charge just to plug in and run a diagnostic, plus extra for any programming that might be required.

I then spoke to a local MB specialist that have the official MB diagnostic equipment, and they could fit me in within a week.

Essentially the new sensor needed to be coded in to work, and it has been working ever since (1 week now). They charged be £140 for the diagnostic and programming, which was much more agreeable! So two knock-off sensors and coding came to around £400.

I have no clue why sensor 1 works fine, but sensor 2 needed to be coded (both the same compatible sensor from ebay), will see how long they last. Irks me somewhat as I'm forced to use an MB dealership or specialist to mend my car, maybe the third-party code readers will evolve in time...

In case anyone is interested, this is what the genuine MB sensors look like inside (covered by a gel inside aluminium housing):

View attachment 3542

Doesn't look super complicated, the main microcontroller can be bought for around £6 from mouser (for a single unit), so I find it hard to comprehend how it can cost £400..!!
Hats off to you for perseverance. I hate maintaining modern vehicle engines - increased complexity and reduced reliability for the sake of emissions regulations. Give me an old fashioned diesel that runs on chip oil or peanut butter
 
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